Neckband



1,519,279 J. M. VAN HEUSEN f EECKBAND Filed Oct 4,

Patented Dec. 16, 1924.

UNITED STATES JOHN M. VAN HEUSEN, F BOSTON, DIASSAOHUSETTS.

NECKBAND.

Application filed October 4, 1922.

To all iii/m i2- may concern:

Be it known that I, JOHN M. VAN HEU- snN, a citizen of the UnitedStates, and a resident of Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State ofMassachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements inNeckbands, of which the following is a specification.

The present invention relates to neck bands for shirts and methods ofattaching the same, and more particularly to neck bands made ofsemi-stiff fabric such, for example as multiple ply interwoven fabric.

I-Ieretofore neckbands have been made of a plurality of layers of fabricfolded or cut to the desired shape and stitched together. The pocket atthe back buttonhole portion of these neckbands necessitates additionalcutting and piecing and also requires additional sewing machineoperations. Neckbands of this type are costly of manufacture because ofthe great amount of labor and time required in cutting, shaping, piecingand stitching together the several pieces of fabric of which they arecomposed. Furthermore, neckbands of this type have practically no bodyor stiffness and consequently require the use of starch in thelaundering process.

In my Patent No. 1,277,788 granted September 3, 1918, I describe andillustrate a neckband made of a fabric having sutlicient weight and bodyto obviate the necessity of starch or other stiffening means. I describemeans whereby the neckband may be woven of any shape or size desired,and I also describe a neckband provided with means whereby it can beattached to the shirt by a single sewing machine operation.

According to one embodiment of my invention patented in my said PatentNo. 1,277 ,788, I provide during the weaving op eration a pocket in theback buttonhole portion of the neckband. The present inventionrelates'in part to a neckband having an improved back buttonhole portionand to methods of attaching the said neckband to a shirt or similararticle.

The neckband ofmy present invention is made of semi-stiff fabric, such,for example, as multiple ply interwoven fabric. By the term semi-stiff Ido not mean to define any particular degree of stifiness, but I use itina broad sense, as including all fabrics which in an unstarched conditionpossess 'for a neckband.

Serial No. 592,335.

greater inherent stiffness than the ordinary unstarched fabric of whichneckbands are commonly made, such, for example, as handkcrchicf cloth orcambrics, etc.

iiccording to one embodiment of my invention I weave a strip of two plyinterwoven fabric of the shape and size desired At the pointcorresponding to the back outtonhole port-ion of the ncckband, I weave apocket by separating the plies of the fabric, said pocket being closedat its top and side edges and open at the bottom edge. I also weavealong the bottom edge of the neckband fabric a divided edge formed bythe separate extensions of the two ply fabric. In attaching the neckbandto the shirt I secure the shirt fabric between the divided edge of theneckband. At the backbutton hole portion I secure the shirt between oneof the edges of the divided edge and the edge of an additionalrectangular strip of fabric which is inserted into the but-tonholepocket and secured. In this way I provide adequate means for securingthe shirt to the neckband, and, at the back buttonhole portion, I leaveone of the plies which form the pocket unattached to the shirt and openat the lower edge so the collar button may be inserted therein.

My invention will be more particularly described in connection with theaccompanying drawings illustrative of certain embodiments thereof, inwhich- Fig. 1 is a perspective view of the neckband attached to theshirt.

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the neckband showing the back buttonholeportion.

Fig. 3 is a plan view showing a portion of the. neckband of Fig. 2 andhaving the 9 upper layer of fabric out along the center of the pocketand folded back.

Fig. 4 is an enlarged and diagrammatical sectional view taken on theline 4l-4t of Fig. 3.

Fig. 5 is an enlarged and diagrannnatimil sectional view taken on theline 5-5 of Fig. 2.

Fig. 6 is an enlarged and dia rannnatical sectional view taken on theline 66 of Fig. 2.

Fig. 7 is a perspective view showing the first step in the preferredmethod of attachment.

Fig. 8 is a perspective view showing tuc lUi) central portion of theneckband attached to the shirt.

In the drawings Fig. 1 shows the neo band of the present invention as itwould appear when attached to a shirt. The back buttonhole pocket 1. isopen at the lower edge 2 thereof to permit the insertion of a collarbutton in the buttonhole 3.

The pocket 1 may be produced in any desired manner. In the two plyinterwoven fabric of which my preferred neckband is constructed, Iproduce the back buttonhole pocket by so operating the loom (whilewearing the said back buttonhole portion) as to weave the two plies ofthe fabric separate and unconnected; that is, the interweavingoperation, which normally consists in passing a setof warp threads(known as interweave or hinder threads) through both plies of the fabricand binding them together, suspended. In the preferred e1nbmliuient thepocket does not extend the entire width of the neckband so as to produce a tube. but stops just below the upper edge of the necklaunl. Theupper edge of the neckband is therefore a continuous seh'age edgethroughout its entire length.

Fig. 2 illustrates the neckband as it appears before being attached tothe shirt. i! 3 shows the back portion of the neckband with the upperlayer of the pocket cut down the center and folded back. The interwovenportions of the neckband are indicated by the numeral 4;, the inside orlower flange or extension by the numeral 5 and the outside or upperflange or extension by 6. The piece of fabric 7 which is inserted in thepocket 1 and which forms the central flange, is secured at the upper andside edges of the pocket by the stitches 8. The said piece of fabric 7,in addition to providing the central flange, also strengthens andreinforces the neckband at the back buttonhole portion where a largeproportion of the wear and strain on the neckband comes.

Fig. at. which is a section taken on the line =t---t of Fig. illustratesconventionally the two ply interwoven fabric 4: of which the neckband ismade. It will be noted that the flanges 5 and 6 on the lower edge of theneckband are extensions of the two plies of the neckband fabric, theinterweaving having been omitted along the flange portion. Fig. 5 is asection taken through the back buttonhole portion along the line 5-5 ofFig. 2. The side faces of the pocket are unconnected and the lower edgesthereof form the flanges 5 and 6. The additimial. layer 7 is insertedbetween the side faces of the pocket as illustrated. Fig. *3 is also asectional view of the pocket taken along the line (S -6 of Fig. 2. Thelayer 7 is shown after being inserted in the pocket and secured bystitches .8.

7 and 8 illustrate one method by which the neckband may advantageouslybe attached to the shirt. The neckband, of which only the back portionis illustrated, is laid out flat with. the buttonhole 3 on the upperside. The flange (5 is turned back and the shirt fabric is placed overthe lower flange 5. The central flange 7 is then placed over the shirtfabric at the back buttonhole portion and a. row of stitches 10 is putin to secure together the shirt fabric, the central flange and the lowerflange. This is illustrated in Fig. 7. The upper flange 6 is thenreleased and allowed to cover the exposed edge of the shirt fabric 9 andalso the central flange 7. Stitches 11 are then put in as shown in l ig.8. It will be noted that the flange 6 is sewed to the shirt fabric andlower flange at all points except the back buttonhole portion, where thestitches are omitted to leave an opening for the collar button.Furthermore it will. be seen that at the back buttonhole portion thecentral flange 7 performs the same function that is performed by theflange (3 at the portions on both sides of the said back buttonholeportion. That is, the flange 7 covers the raw upper edge of the shirtfabric and, in conjunction with the stitches 10, secures the neckbandthereto.

If it is found more convenient or desirable to do so, the piece offabric 7 may be attached to the pocket at the same time and with thesame operation that the shirt fabric is attached to the neckband.According to this method I place the neckband out flat with thebuttonhole 3 .in the upper side and turn back the flange 6. I then placethe shirt fabric along the lower flange 5, and at the buttonhole portionI place the piece of fabric 7 (which unattached to the necl-zband) overthe shirt fabric so that its lower edge covers the upper edge of theshirt fabric and so that the remaining portion of the said piece 7projects into the pocket I then stitch together the lower flange 5. thecentral piece 7 and the shirt fabric 10. The last step in the attachmentconsists in placing the flange 6 over the exposed edge of the shirtfabric and also over the central flange 7. and passing a row of stitchesalong the flange ti up to the back buttonhole portion around the sideand u per edges of the pocket 3 (thus securing tfie piece 7 to thepocket) and continuing along the flange (i on the other side of the saidpocket. It will be noted that this method of attachment obviates thenecessity of .1 separate and extra operation to attach the centralflange 7 and the pocket 23.

The terms and expressions which I have employed are used as terms ofdescription and not of limitation. and I have no intention in the use ofsuch terms and expressions. of excluding any equivalents of the featuresshown and described. or portions thereof, but recognize that variousmodili cations are possible within the scope of the invention claimed.

i i hat I claim is:

l. A shirt provided with a fabric neckband having an inner and an outerflange at the bottom forming a divided edge and having also, at the backbuttonhole portion, a pocket formed by the separate layers of the saidneckband; an additional piece of fabric between the two layers of thepocket, said additional piece of fabric being secured along a portion ofits edge to at least one of the said two layers but leavii its loweredge unattached and in substntial. alignment with the lower edge of theneckband; the upper edge of the shirt fabric overlying-the inner flangeof said divided edge, and the additional piece of fabric over lying theupper edge of the shirt fabric at the back butt-onhole portion; a. rowof stitches securing together the shirt fabric, the inner flange of thedivided edge and the additional piece of fabric; the outer flange of thedivided edge overlying the upper edge of the shirt fabric and theadditional piece of fabric; and a second row of stitches extending thelength of the outer flange of the divided edge, except at the bi ckbuttonhole portion, and securing together the outer and inner flanges ofthe divided edge and the shirt fabric, but leaving the outer flangeunattached at the pocket.

2. A shirt provided with a multiple ply interwoven fabric neckbandhaving an inner and an outer flange at the bottom forming a divided edgeand having also, at the back buttonhole portion, a pocketformed by theseparate layers of the said neckband; an additional piece of fabricbetween the two layers of the pocket, said additional piece of fabricbeing secured along a portion of its edge to at least one of the saidtwo layers but leaving its lower edge unattached and in substantialalignment with the lower edge of the neckband; the upper edge of theshirt fabric overlying the inner flange of said divided edge, and theadditional piece of fabric overlying the upper e lge of the shirt fabricat the back buttonhole portion; a row of stitches securing together theshirt fabric, the inner flange of the divided edge and the additionalpiece of fabric; the outer flange of the divided edge overlying th iuper edge of the shirt fabric and the additional piece of fabric; and asecond row of stitches ex tending the length of the outer flange of thedivided edge, except at the back buttonhole portion, and securingtogether the outer and inner flanges of the divided edge and the shirtfabric, but leaving the outer flange enatt-ached at the pocket.

3. A shirt provided with a neckband having an inner and outer flange atthe bottom forming-a divided edge and having also, at the backbuttonhole portion, a pocket formed by the separate layers of the saidnechband: the upper edge of the shirt fabric covering the inner flangeof the said divided edge: an additional piece of fabric between the twolayers of the pocket, the lower edge of said additional piece of fabricbeing in substan tially alignment with the lower edge of the neckbandand overlying the upper edge of the shirt fabric; a row of stitchessecuring together the shirt fabric, the inner flange of the divided edgeand the additional piece of fabric; the outer flange of the divided edgecovering the upper edge of the shirt fabric and the additional piece offabric, and a second row of stitches extending along the outer flange ofthe. divided edge up to the back but-tonhole portion, around the sideand upper edges of the pocket, thus securing the additional piece offabric to the pocket, and along the outer flange of the divided edge onthe other side of the said pocket, the outer flange being unattached atthe pocket.

4. A shirt provided with a multiple ply interwoven fabric neckbandhaving an inner and outer flange at the bottom forming a divided edgeand having also, at the back buttonhole portion, a pocket formed by theseparate layers of the said neckband; the upper edge of the shirt fabriccovering the inner flange of said divided edge; an additional piece offabric between the two layers of the pocket, the lower edge of saidadditional piece of fabric being in substantial alignment with the loweredge of the neckband and overlying the upper edge of the shirt fabric; arow of stitches securing together the shirt fabric, the inner flange ofthe divided edge and the additional piece of fabric; the outer flange ofthe divided edge covering the upper edge of the shirt fabric and theadditional piece of fabric, and a sec- 011d row of stitches extendingalong the outer flange of the divided edge up to the back buttonholeportion, around the side and upper edges of the pocket, thus securingthe additional piece of fabric to the pocket, and along the outer flangeof the divided edge 011 the other side of the said pocket, the outerflange being unattached at the pocket.

5. That improvements in the art of male ing and attaching neckbands toshirts which consists in making a fabric neckband strip having an innerand an outer flange at the bottom forming a divided edge and havingalso, at the back buttonhole portion, a pocket formed by the separatelayers of the said fabric neckband strip; positioning the neckband onthe shirt so that the upper edge of the shirt fabric overlies the innerflange of: the said divided edge; inserting an additional piece offabric between the two layers of the pocket so that its lower edgeoverlies lll) the upper edge of the shirt fabric at the back buttonholeportion; securing together by a row of stitches the shirt fabric, theinner flange of the divided edge and the additional piece of fabric;placing the outer flange of the divided edge so that it overlies theupper edge of the shirt fabric and the additional piece of fabric; andpassing a second row of stitches along the outer flange of the dividededge up to the back buttonhole portion around the side and upper edgesof the pocket, thus securing the additional piece of fabric to thepocket, and continuing along the outer flange of the divided edge on theother side of the said pocket, and leaving the outer flange unattachedat the pocket.

6. That improvement in the art of making and attaching neckbands toshirts which consists in making a multiple ply interwoven fabricneckband having an inner and outer flange at the bottom forming adivided edge and having also, at the back buttonhole portion, a pocketformed by the separate layers of the said fabric neckband strip;positioning the neckband on the shirt so that the upper edge of theshirt fabric overlies the inner flange of the said di vided edge;inserting an additional piece of fabric between the two layers of thepocket so that its lower edge overlies the upper edge of the shirtfabric at the back buttonhole portion; securing together by a row ofstitches the shirt fabric, the inner flange of the divided edge and theadditional piece of fabric; placing the outer flange of the divided edgeso that it overlies the upper edge of the shirt fabric and the additioalpiece of fabric; and passing a second row of stitches along the outerflange of the divided edge up to the back buttonhole portion. around theside and upper edges of the pocket,thus securing the additional piece.of fabric to the pocket, and continuing along the outer flange of thedivided edge on the other side of the said pocket, and leaving the outerflange unattached at the pocket.

JOHN M. \.\N l-lEUSEN.

